Hello everyone! Has anyone watched the “Street Food: Asia” series on Netflix? If so, you might remember the famous Kalguksu (hand-cut noodle) lady from Seoul.
Today, I’m taking you to the very place where you can meet her: Gwangjang Market.
While her master-level noodles are legendary, we just explored the Kalguksu Alley in Namdaemun two days ago. So today, I’m going to skip the noodles and focus on two other “must-eat” icons of Gwangjang Market that you absolutely cannot miss: Nokdu Bindaetteok (Mung Bean Pancakes) and Mayak Gimbap (Addictive Rice Rolls). ;)
The Sizzling Magic of Nokdu-bindaetteok
First up is Nokdu-bindaetteok (Mung Bean Pancake). When you visit Gwangjang Market, head straight for “Soon-hee-ne Bindaetteok.” Watching them griddle these pancakes in a generous amount of oil is so mesmerizing—you’ll find yourself sitting down at a table before you even realize it! Haha.
For some reason, homemade mung bean pancakes never taste quite like the ones here. I think it’s because we can’t bring ourselves to use this much oil at home! The secret to the market version is that they are practically deep-fried on the griddle. This brings out a rich, nutty aroma and creates the perfect texture: shatteringly crispy on the outside and incredibly moist on the inside.
The best way to enjoy it? Dip a piece into the onion soy sauce and top it with a crunchy slice of onion. It cuts through the richness and makes every bite perfectly balanced.
Whenever I eat Bindaetteok here, I always order a bottle of Makgeolli (Korean rice wine). ^^ It’s the absolute perfect pairing for savory pancakes!
Why is it called “Bindaetteok”?
In Korean, Bindae is actually the word for bedbug. But don’t worry—I promise there are zero insects involved in this delicious crispy treat!
So, where did this unique name actually come from?
The “Pancake for the Poor” (Bin-ja-tteok)
The most popular story dates back to the Joseon Dynasty. The name is believed to have evolved from “Bin-ja (貧者),” which literally translates to “the poor.” Back then, when times were tough or after a big festival, wealthy families would grind up mung beans, fry them into hearty pancakes, and share them with neighbors who were struggling. It was a beautiful way to make sure no one went hungry. So, it was truly a “Gift for the People.”
Since meat was super expensive and rare in the past, people got creative! By frying the mung bean batter in pork fat, they managed to create a rich, savory, and “meaty” flavor without needing the actual steak. It provided much-needed protein and comfort, becoming the ultimate Korean Soul Food.
The Addiction of “Mayak Gimbap”
The second must-eat item is Mayak Gimbap. Now, I have to clarify something first: in Korean, the word “Mayak” literally translates to “narcotics” or “drugs.” don’t panic! You’re not in trouble.
In Korea, we use the word “Mayak” as a slang for something “dangerously addictive”—meaning once you start eating, you simply can’t stop!
These mini rice rolls might look simple, filled with just carrots, pickled radish, and spinach, but they are a Gwangjang Market legend for a reason. What makes these mini rolls truly “addictive” isn’t just the rice and veggies—it’s the signature mustard dipping sauce.
When you take a bite of the gimbap after dipping it in this sharp, tangy sauce, the spicy kick of the mustard clears your palate. It’s a simple combination, but the balance of the savory sesame oil and the zesty mustard is so good.
You’ll find Mayak Gimbap stalls all over Gwangjang Market, so there’s no need to stress about finding the “one” spot.
The Joy of “Stall Hopping” vs. The One-Stop Feast
Gwangjang Market is a massive collection of specialized stalls, each with its own master dish. One of the biggest charms here is “stall hopping”—sitting shoulder-to-shoulder with strangers on narrow benches, trying one dish, then moving on to the next. It’s an incredibly lively and authentic way to experience the market’s energy!
But I have to be honest with you… I always end up overeating at my very first stop! ^^ Everything is just so delicious that it’s impossible to stop at just one bite.
If you’re anything like me and prefer to settle in and feast, look for a stall that serves a bit of everything. Instead of moving around, you can stay in one spot and order a variety of dishes—like Bindaetteok, Gimbap, Odeng (Fish Cake Skewers),and Teokbokki—all at once.
A Surprise Gimbap Pop-up
During my visit to Gwangjang Market, I stumbled upon a fascinating Gimbap Pop-up Store.
This wasn’t just any ordinary stall; it was a special project that recreated the most famous “signature gimbaps” from renowned restaurants all across Korea. In a typical gimbap shop, you’ll find the classics alongside popular variations like canned tuna, salmon, or bulgogi. But this pop-up took it to a whole new level of creativity.
I saw some truly mind-blowing combinations that even made me, a local, do a double-take. Samgyeopsal Gimbap(Featuring thick slices of grilled pork belly.) Galchi (Beltfish) Gimbap (A bold choice using savory grilled fish.) Myeongnan (Pollock Roe) Gimbap: Salty, umami-rich roe wrapped in rice.
Seeing these unique ingredients made me realize just how much the world of Gimbap is evolving! Sadly, the line was incredibly long—a testament to its popularity—so I couldn’t get a taste this time. But just seeing the sheer variety was an experience in itself!
Gimbap-themed Goods
Although I couldn’t get a taste of the famous rolls, I was lucky enough to browse through the exclusive pop-up merchandise!
I saw so many adorable items. Gimbap Shoe Charms, Gimbap Phone Grips,Gimbap Dish Sponges…But the real showstopper (though not exactly gimbap-related) was a Watermelon Eraser. In Korea, when you buy a whole watermelon, it’s often wrapped in a traditional plastic string net so you can carry it easily. Seeing a tiny eraser wrapped in that same miniature net was just too cute for words! It’s these small, witty details that make Korean pop-up stores so much fun to explore.
A Spoonful of Retro – Onion Gwangjang Market
While Gwangjang Market is known for its traditional and “old-school” vibe, there’s a spot where you can experience a modern twist on that classic atmosphere. It’s a place that perfectly captures the “Retro” trend—a style that has become incredibly popular among Korea’s younger generation who find charm in the aesthetics of the past.
Let me introduce you to Cafe Onion Gwangjang Market.
Cafe Onion also has famous branches in Anguk (housed in a traditional Hanok) and Seongsu-dong (an industrial-chic space), but each location offers a completely different vibe. Here, you’ll find the flagship Cafe Onion seongsu-dong, housed in a building that looks like a rugged relic of the area’s industrial past. Haha.
The first time you walk in, the raw, unfinished walls might make you wonder, “Will there even be a place to sit?” But don’t let the exterior fool you! Once you step inside and explore every nook and cranny, you’ll find plenty of seating options—from cozy terrace spots to communal big tables perfect for group chats.
If you’re a fan of diverse atmospheres, you should also check out the Anguk branch, which is set in a traditional Hanok (Korean house). It’s amazing how one cafe brand can offer such distinct experiences depending on the neighborhood!
I highly recommend checking out the unique mood of each branch before deciding which one to visit first!
The Showstopper – Pastry Pizza & Strawberry Jam
When you step into Onion Gwangjang Market, there’s one menu item that will immediately catch your eye: the Giant Pastry Pizza.
Unlike a regular savory pizza, this is a massive, multi-layered puff pastry that is incredibly flaky and buttery. It’s served with a generous dollop of sweet strawberry jam on the side.
The fun part? It comes in a classic pizza box, and you can even buy it by the slice! The combination of the warm, salty layers of pastry and the cool, sweet jam is a match made in heaven. It’s the perfect “modern” dessert to enjoy while soaking in the “old-school” market atmosphere.
You’ll see people from all over the world sitting on the wooden benches, enjoying their pastry pizza and coffee amidst the bustling market atmosphere. It’s always heartening to see travelers discovering these hidden gems. I guess great taste and a unique vibe are universal languages that everyone understands! ;)
While I personally visited Gwangjang Market mostly “just to eat,” ^^ there is so much more to explore!
Beyond the food stalls, you can witness the raw, authentic pulse of a Korean traditional market. Don’t miss the Vintage Shops, where you can find unique clothing and interesting treasures.
Over the past few days, we’ve journeyed through the diverse styles of Seoul’s markets—from the warmth of Namdaemun and the freshness of Noryangjin to the vibrant energy of Gwangjang. Each neighborhood in Seoul has its own local market with a unique character, so I’ll be back with even more tasty market stories soon!
From Seoul, MJay, the Ultimate Market Foodie!
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