Hanok is a traditional Korean house known for its beautiful wooden structures and tiled roofs. Nowadays, these historic buildings are being transformed into the hippest cafes and bars in Seoul.
A Day Inside the Modern Hanok
Lately, Seoul has been witnessing a beautiful transformation: traditional Hanoks (Korean houses) are being redesigned into trendy cafes and restaurants. These spaces have become “Hip-places” for the younger generation, who find the blend of ancient architecture and modern aesthetics incredibly cool and fresh.
Today, I want to take you on a journey through a full day spent entirely within the charm of a Hanok—from your morning coffee to a late-night cocktail. I’m curious to see how these spaces, where the past and present coexist so seamlessly, will look through your eyes!
A Morning Brew in a Historic Hanok
Shall we start the morning with the delightful aroma of freshly baked bread and coffee?
Cafe Onion (Anguk Branch) is a stunning example of how a historic Hanok can be reborn with a modern touch. This spacious venue is one of Seoul’s most iconic cafes, beloved for its architectural beauty. For a perfect start to your day, I highly recommend their wide variety of artisanal pastries and breads.
Visiting in the morning is a much better choice than in the afternoon. Since it’s such a popular spot, it can get quite crowded later in the day. By arriving early, you can truly soak in the peaceful, serene atmosphere of the Hanok while enjoying your breakfast in tranquility.
The moment you stand at the entrance, the “Hanok vibe” hits you instantly. It’s impossible to miss.
Now, it’s time to choose your coffee and pastries!
Despite its popularity, the cafe never feels suffocating because of its impressive scale. The courtyard is vast and open—judging by the size of this Hanok, the original owner must have been incredibly wealthy!
If the weather is nice, I highly recommend sitting on the Daecheong-maru (the traditional wooden porch). You’ll have to take off your shoes and sit cross-legged on the floor, which might feel a bit unfamiliar or even uncomfortable at first. However, there’s a unique sense of coziness that comes with sitting on the floor—it makes you feel right at home. Since Koreans are very accustomed to this “floor-sitting culture,” these spots are highly coveted, so you might have to be quick to snag a seat!
Take a moment to stroll around the cafe as if you’re exploring a historic site. I’ve previously introduced Cafe Onion in Seongsu-dong (with its industrial vibe) and the one in Gwangjang Market (with its raw, busy energy), but this Anguk branch offers a completely different, soul-soothing experience.
Lunch in the Maze of Ikseon-dong
Now, let’s head out for lunch! Our destination is Hoho Sikdang in Ikseon-dong.
Ikseon–dong is a unique neighborhood where traditional Hanoks are densely packed together along narrow, winding alleys. Originally a residential area, its distinctive vintage atmosphere has transformed it into one of Seoul’s trendiest districts. Most of the houses have been converted into charming boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. I highly recommend taking some time to get lost in these tiny alleys—there’s so much joy in discovering hidden shops and beautiful corners before you sit down for your meal.
Hoho Sikdang is located right in the heart of this area. Like Onion Anguk, it features a beautiful Jungjeong (inner courtyard), but on a much smaller, more intimate scale. Since the restaurant is divided into smaller sections—which were likely individual rooms in the past—you get an unintended but wonderful sense of privacy while you dine.
When it comes to the menu at Hoho Sikdang, their Uni Pasta is legendary. But honestly, you can’t go wrong with anything here. My personal go-to combination is usually the Uni Pasta paired with Sake-dong (Salmon Sashimi Bowl). The freshness of the seafood against the traditional Hanok backdrop is a match made in heaven. And if you’re visiting with kids, their Donkatsu (Pork Cutlet) is an absolute must-order—it’s a crowd-pleaser for all ages! ^^
While writing this, I realized something interesting. Just like ‘Cafe Onion’, ‘Hoho Sikdang‘ also has a branch in Seongsu-dong. It seems like all the hottest spots eventually find their way there! As someone whose office is located in Seongsu–dong, I feel pretty lucky to have these gems right in my backyard. Haha!
An Exotic Twist – Smith is Happy in a Hanok
For those spending their day around Gyeongbokgung Palace or Samcheong-dong, I have another fantastic suggestion. (Gyeongbokgung is a must-visit, especially if it’s your first time in Korea—it’s one of my personal favorite spots!)
Just a short walk across the street from the palace, you’ll find a place with a quirky and charming name: “Smith is Happy in a Hanok”
The combination is truly fascinating—eating exotic Italian cuisine inside a very traditional, house-style Hanok.
They specialize in wood-fired pizzas and a variety of authentic Italian dishes. If you’ve been eating nothing but Korean food since you arrived and find yourself craving a “taste of home,” this is the perfect spot for you!
As you arrive, you might find yourself hesitating for a second, thinking, “Wait, is this the right place? This doesn’t look like a Hanok!” But don’t worry—you haven’t made a wrong turn! Once you pass through the modern exterior and step inside, a stunningly gorgeous and majestic Hanok reveals itself.
The Perfect Dinner– Traditional Spirits and Jeon
To wrap up our day in a Hanok, why not enjoy a drink along with a hearty meal?
While people in many countries might enjoy drinks on their own, Koreans almost always pair alcohol with Anju—dishes that are substantial enough to be a full meal. So, think of this as a “dinner with drinks” experience.
Our last stop is Samsiohwa, a beautiful Hanok space where you can explore a vast variety of traditional Korean spirits. Among them, I highly recommend Makgeolli (traditional rice wine). Its naturally sweet and creamy profile is very approachable, but be careful—if it’s too sweet, it might overshadow the flavors of your food. ;)
Since they offer a fantastic selection of Jeon (Korean savory pancakes), I suggest starting there. On my visit, we feasted through various Jeon, grilled fish, and eventually ended with a Mandoo-jeongol (Dumpling Hot Pot). I must have been craving that comforting, hot broth to finish the night, as it’s the only photo I have left! ^^
Also we paired our meal with Haechang Makgeolli (6%). It’s incredibly delicious, but keep an eye on the menu—as the alcohol percentage goes up with this particular brand, the price can jump significantly! (Though, I have to admit, it’s worth every won… lol).
The Grand Finale: A Nightcap at Bar Eugene
Our journey has reached its grand finale! After a hearty dinner, it feels a bit too early to head back to the hotel, doesn’t it? Let’s wrap up this unforgettable day with a light cocktail or a smooth glass of whisky.
Bar Eugene is a stunning whisky bar housed in a beautifully renovated Hanok. The atmosphere here is simply overwhelming. With an endless selection of whiskies, cocktails, and wines, you might find yourself in a state of “decision paralysis”—but even that process is part of the fun here!
The bar counter is perfect for intimate conversations. In the spring and autumn, they open the large glass windows wide, allowing the cool breeze to drift through. Sitting there with a drink in hand, feeling the gentle night wind… it’s pure romance.
And that brings our day-long Hanok adventure to a close. I wanted to make sure you don’t miss a single moment of Seoul’s enchanting nights.
What do you think about the Hanoks I’ve shared today? While nothing beats staying in one for a night, visiting these spaces is the perfect way to begin feeling the unique “breath” and spirit of traditional Korea. If you want to experience that special ambiance even for a little while, I highly recommend starting your journey with these spots!
I’ll be back soon with more interesting stories and hidden gems from this city.
From Seoul, MJay
+ Looking for more hidden gems in Korea? Check out the post below for my latest discoveries!
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